The Sweet Life

If England and France are so wonderful, then why do I keep going back to Italy? La Dolce Vita, of course. Italy is lush and lovely and has 2500 years of culture to permeating the ground. It has my favorite style of food (I’m a pasta lover), and has Gelato all over the place. If some genie offered me the following deal: you get an annual trip to Italy, for free, every year, but it’s the only place in Europe you can go – well, I’d have a hard time passing that up.

Italy is a great destination during the Spring Break period. March in Northern Europe is a dreary affair – 45 and drizzly, with nothing in bloom. By contrast, Italy is shaking off the winter and, though the trees will still be bare in the north, you can at the least expect comfortable temperatures for walking. South of Rome the climate is nearly tropical by then. So for those of us constrained to travel by the school calendar, Italy makes an ideal Spring Break destination. A major advantage there is cost, which I’ll cover later: Spring flights and lodging are generally cheaper than summer.

Unlike England or France, though, I consider the capital, Rome, to be the lesser of Italy’s great family destinations. B+, in my book. It has the iconic locations – the Colosseum & St. Peters, to start. The Pantheon to a lesser degree (its size is impressive by itself, but more because of how intact it is, for its age). Rome has gelato, and lots of it. It has plenty of street pizza. And a Mascarpone Pie at Pizza Est Est Est that was delicious.

It also has ruins, and lots of them. I love ruins. Some ruins are tangibly evocative and compelling, I especially think of Jumièges Abbey in Normandy. Many of the Roman ruins, though, require a good deal of knowledge and even more imagination. I think of the Forum, mostly: outlines of buildings in the ground, and the patch of stone where Caesar may or may not have been stabbed. Many kids wouldn’t easily be able to conjure it all up, though you can show them Ben Hur and see what happens (I’m not screening Gladiator for my boys for a few more years).

And that’s the point – I take Rome as an adult destination. Just look at the iconic movies set there: La Dolce Vita, The Bicycle Thief, Roman Holiday. You have to know something about life to really enjoy Rome. My recommendation: wait until your kids are in college, and invite them for a cocktail at the Hassler. Then send them off on their own way – backpacks and hostels -- while you and yours contemplate the Spanish Steps.

For the rest of the tour, I’ll start South. I think Sicily, C+, is a tough sell; poorer tourist amenities and a lack of “wow” destinations keep it off my list. There are better places for beaches.

Naples, B-, fares only a little better. Yes, it’s the birthplace of pizza, and the harbor is supposed to be spectacular, but I’m not dragging my kids up a volcano. And I’m still freaked out, at 44, by the plaster cast people in Pompeii, I don’t think my kids need that.

Apuglia, B+. The heel of the boot. Less traveled, but from what I’ve read, folks rave about this area. It’ll have nice beaches, secluded coves, and pretty towns. A refined and relaxed trip, the road less traveled. I could be talked into an A- here.

Amalfi, A-. The glamorous shin of the boot. Colorful settlements clinging precariously to the side of a coastal cliff. You really can’t go wrong here, unless you have a tighter budget or are there in the high season (beach space gets crowded). There, towns and beaches are the sights: and Rome is close enough if you want to split the trip. If your kid is fidgety, they may need the diversion after a few days.

Sardinia, C+. No.

Tuscany, A. I speak from experience here. Our kids loved it, and us adults had plenty to do, too. Some of it touristy – note that the age limit for going up the Leaning Tower of Pisa is 8, but it’s worth it.  Kids will respond to the art of Florence, just don’t overload them. We plopped ours in front of the Birth of Venus and had then contemplate the details. They also remember well the Laocoon in the Uffizi – why not, it’s a guy being eaten by snakes. And, the David (be prepared, though, for sniggers about his butt). We managed hill-top towns and secondary cities like Lucca – rent bikes and circle the city walls. You can even make it as far as Umbria, too. Only the Duomo failed to impress, but we didn’t make it up to the top. And do yourself a favor, stay with Bill and John.

Northern Italy, B. Milan, Bologna, Verano, Modena…I’ve had fine times in all of those places. Design, food, opera, sports cars (in that order): if your kids are into those, give it a try. Milan is a very convenient airport for US flights, so feel free to give it a couple of days. And it has the Last Supper painting (by appointment only). Still, Tuscany is so, close by, why wouldn’t you go there instead?

Venice, A. When I was a kid, I’d sometimes look out my window and imagine that the blacktop street was really all water. I imagined diving out of my second story window; taking a boat to the park. And that’s Venice. It’s not for everyone, and after a couple of days it does actually become a bit of a hassle. And the food is sub-par. But the first two days are like nothing else, young and old alike. The best 110 Euros I ever spend was the water taxi ride down the Grand Canal. Stop here if you at all can.

Italian Alps, B. They shot the Stallone movie Cliffhanger in the Dolomites because those mountains are famously tall and steep. It’s a sight to see, no doubt, and the Germanic feel of Tyrolia is charming. It belongs more in the tour of Austria, the region is not very accessible from the south. The lakes Como and Maggiore  have more spectacular scenery, but its slower pace calls for an empty nest trip.

Piedmont/Ligura, A-. Go see the Cinque Terre before they start restricting visitors. Make sure your kids are in hiking shape, though. The rest of the Ligurian coast is indeed more adult than not, though seaside gelato soothes any whiney tot. Columbus has fallen out of fashion, but I still celebrate him, and Genoa is the place to do it.

Whenever I start thinking of a European trip, Italy is always on the table. Always.