Friday, March 4, 2016

Le Roi S'amuse

Let 's get this out of the way: France is the King of European travel destinations. Everyone goes there, including the French themselves. Seriously, how often do you see French tourists in America? For better or for worse, Germans get around. But the French stay home.
And why not -- France packs about as much geographical diversity as the continental US into a space the size of Texas. Palm trees on the Cote d'Azur, high alpine glaciers, rich central farmland, wet northern plains, lush river valleys, rocky Atlantic coast -- there's a part of France for nearly every taste.
That implies, though, that there are parts of France that are not for everyone's taste, and this is especially true for kids.
France's family charms begin, and quite nearly end, with Paris. Paris hits all the marks on my list. If I were grading:

Kids Literature/Movies, A. Basic suggestions: Babar, Madeline, Eloise, The Family Under the Bridge, Hunchback of Notre Dame. Ratatouille, of course.

Kid Sights, A. Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Arc de Triomphe, Centre Pompidou (I wouldn't brave the Lourve with a kid, and there's absolutely no point in showing them the Mona Lisa). All big, iconic sights, guaranteed to impress. I left Eurodisney off of this list, but hey -- feel free.

Kid Activities, A-. Bateau Mouche (cruise the Seine). Stop at Berthillon. Stroll the Tuileries.

Food, A. Yes, you can get bad meals in Paris, there are plenty of tourist traps. But there are just as many reliable bistros that serve up a good croque monsieur. And you can just as easily get a tasty nutella crepe from a streetside vendor. Just be prepared, once you come back to the US, you'll wonder where all the flavor went.

Timing, A. Paris is a great destination in any month except August (servers take that month off for their own vacation -- everything shuts down).
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Downsides -- not many. It's expensive, of course, but bargains can be found -- there are plenty of apartments for rent, for example, if you're staying a week. And if you win the Georgia lottery, go ahead and splurge on the George V.

The real downside from my point of view is all the things you'll want to do, but can't, since you've got the kids. Late night romantic dinner? The Louvre, or the d'Orsay? Sorry, not this trip. I mitigate this by the fact that Paris is such a common destination -- a gateway -- that even if you don't do/see these things this time around, you'll get to them again later. Whereas you may not make it back to Syndey, so you better see the Opera House.

So there -- it's just hard to beat Paris. Go ahead and google "Paris for Kids" and you;ll see.You can spend a week there with your kids and have a great time, and still save stuff for your next trip. But, if you start to venture further afield, then you may run into trouble. My Family Travel take on the other popular regions:

Flanders/Champagne: C. Pretty country, but let's face it, Champagne is for adults. WWI sights are iffy for littler kids. Wait until they're 21.

Normandy: B+. The American cemetery will impress anyone. Possibly the Bayeaux Tapestry, too, it's a good story. The landing beaches will work on older teens, maybe, especially if you sell it. A few nice castles and ruins, and Mont St. Michel as a capper. The tale of Joan of Arc in Rouen.

Provence: B+. Is the Pope Catholic? If you answered “maybe”, then Avignon and Provence could be for you. I personally am fascinated by the schism (and particularly Pope Clemet VI’s strategy for surviving the plague). I’m just not sure it’s all that kid-friendly. Provence, to which Avignon is the gateway, is a feast for the senses above all else. Perhaps your kids are refined enough for that, or you want to introduce them to such refinement ("Robert, this here is velvet not velveteen. A gentleman must know the difference.") It’s a high-risk, high-reward proposition.

Brittany: B-. You say your child has the soul of a poet? Then craggy, windswept Brittany is for you. Personally, I’d wait until they’ve had their heart broken and need to mope in the romantic solitude of it all.

Cote d’Azur: C. Kids love the Riviera, but the French coast’s pleasures are decidedly adult. Italy does better for this.

Gascony: C. Again, more beaches, plus wineries that you really can’t enjoy. Save for later.


There’s my skinny on France. Paris works for everyone; where you go from there depends on what kind of kids you have.

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